Saturday, December 21, 2019

The Recoleta Cemetery of Buenos Aires

The cemetery entryway - "Rest In Peace"
El Cementerio de la Recoleta is one of the most beautiful and unique cemeteries in the world. It covers 14 acres in one of the oldest and most exclusive neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, where it's been in use for almost a century.  According to the official statistics there are 4,691 above-ground vaults; 94 of them are National Historical Monuments. Among those buried here are many former presidents of Argentina, military leaders, scientists and educators, Nobel Prize winners, and other notable personalities. And of course the most famous of all, Eva "Evita" Duarte Perón (but not her husband Juan Perón).

It's utterly fascinating to wander around and view the variety of monuments and mausoleums. Some are exotic and ornate, resembling mini churches; some are more simple, and others are falling into disrepair. Many have visible above-ground coffins, but many others have a room that leads to under-ground crypts where the coffins are.


NOTE - click on any photo below to see enlargement!

The first thing you notice on coming in is that it's almost like walking around Buenos Aires itself. The main "streets" are nicely lined with trees and paved with stones.


There is somewhat of a little maze of "streets" through the cemetery; we were thinking they would benefit from street numbers and signs!



Some of the vaults and monuments clearly had a military theme:


Some were clearly more religious:


Sometimes it was clear they were honoring a famous teacher or doctor:


Some feature quite elaborate carving and statuary, even using fine Italian Carrara marble:


In some areas there was a clear state of neglect and disrepair; you have to wonder if there are no surviving family members for older tombs? The domed structure below looks like it used to be glass-enclosed but either vandals or severe weather had taken their toll:




A few other general-interest sights: a famous Argentine boxer nicknamed "The Wild Bull of The Pampas," and a look inside one of the crypts that had surface-level coffins.


This tomb of unhewn stones, honoring one of the generals in Argentina's war of independence, was built by hand by the general's son. Adjacent is another ostentatious statue.


Here are some looks at the relatively simple Duarte Family tomb, where Evita is buried with her father in a double-level underground highly secure and protected vault. There is a fascinating story of what happened to her body during the 20 years between her death and her interment here. But it's still quite a site of "pilgrimage" for those who remember her or her legacy:


Finally, two more of my favorites. How would you love to share a door handle with an angel? I find this very tender and beautiful:


And this one is truly tender and unique. A young Italian woman named Liliana Crociati de Szaszak died in an avalanche in Austria in 1970. Her mother designed a neo-Gothic tomb that recreated her bedroom, with a bronze statue of Liliana in her wedding dress out front. Later when Liliana's beloved dog Sabú died, they added a statue of the dog under her hand. The dog's nose has been polished by the touch of many visitors.


This is a small taste of a vast and wonderful experience. The Recoleta Cemetery is not to be missed by anyone who comes to Buenos Aires!

2 comments:

  1. Spectacular! It reminds me a little of Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, one of my favorite cemeteries in the world.

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  2. I have a picture of myself at Liliana's statue a very haunting statue.

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